Trango Tower Summit Expedition

Trango Tower Summit Expedition Overview

Trango Tower Summit Expedition


The Trango Tower Summit Expedition is one of the most legendary climbing adventures in the Karakoram Range of Pakistan. Standing at 6,286 m (20,623 ft), the Nameless Tower of the Trango Group is world-renowned for its sheer granite walls, making it one of the most challenging and iconic big-wall climbs on Earth.


Located in the Baltoro Glacier region, near Concordia, the Trango Towers rise dramatically above the glacial landscape. The Nameless Tower (Trango Tower) is especially famous among climbers for its near-vertical granite face, technical pitches, and extreme exposure.



Quick Facts about Trango Tower Expedition


  • Region: Karakoram, Baltistan, Gilgit-Baltistan
  • Height: 6,286 m (20,623 ft)
  • Duration: 35-40 days (Islamabad to Islamabad)
  • Difficulty: Extremely Strenuous (technical big-wall climb)
  • Best Season: June to August


Highlights of Trango Tower Summit Expedition


  • Nameless Tower (6,286 m): World�s tallest vertical granite wall, a dream for elite climbers.
  • Baltoro Glacier: One of the longest glaciers outside the poles.
  • Nearby Peaks: Views of K2, Broad Peak, Masherbrum, and Gasherbrums.
  • Climbing Routes: Famous lines include Eternal Flame, Slovenian Route, and British Route.
  • Concordia: Known as the �Throne Room of the Mountain Gods.�


Why Choose the Trango Tower Expedition?


  • One of the most technical and iconic climbs in the world.
  • Remote Karakoram location with unmatched scenery.
  • Chance to join the ranks of legendary climbers.
  • Combines high-altitude trekking with world-class rock climbing.


Best Time for Trango Tower Climb


  • June - August: Best weather window for big-wall climbing.
  • Conditions vary: July offers warmer rock, but also higher risk of storms.


Safety and Tips


  • Requires advanced big-wall climbing and alpine skills.
  • Prepare for technical aid and free climbing up to Grade VI.
  • Weather can change rapidly � flexible schedule essential.
  • Carry satellite communications for safety.


FAQs about Trango Tower Summit Expedition


1. How difficult is the Trango Tower climb?

It is considered one of the most technical climbs in the world, requiring advanced big-wall and alpine skills.


2. How long is the expedition?

Typically 35-40 days, including approach trek, acclimatization, and summit attempt.


3. Can beginners attempt Trango Tower?

No, it is suitable only for elite climbers with prior big-wall experience.


4. What is the most famous route?

The Eternal Flame Route, first climbed by Germans in 1989, remains the most iconic.


Duration

35-40 days

Difficulty

Extremely Strenuous

Price

Base Camp Service: $3000



 Book your spot today

The trip initial deposit is mandatory to book your place earlier, Cancellation policy can be reviewed and term approval is required.

Trip Dates

Destination Trip Date Extra Information
No trip dates available.

Trip Details

Duration: 35-40 days

$ Price (per person) :
Base Camp Service: $3000

Difficulty: Extremely Strenuous

Includes: Guides, Porters, Permits, Camping








Itinerary

Location
Activity
Altitude
Islamabad to Skardu
Flight (1 hr) or 2-day drive via Karakoram Highway. Visit Indus Gorge, Skardu town. Mountain seen: Nanga Parbat (8,126 m).
540 m to 2,228 m
Skardu
Permits and supplies preparation. Visit Shigar Fort, Upper Kachura Lake.
2,228 m
Skardu to Askole
Jeep drive to Askole via Shigar Valley and Braldu River scenery.
3,050 m
Skardu to Askole
Continue jeep drive to Askole.
3,050 m
Askole to Jhola
Trek to Jhola.
3,150 m
Jhola to Paiju
Trek to Paiju. View Paiju Peak (6,610 m).
3,400 m
Paiju to Urdukas
Trek to Urdukas. First views of Trango Towers.
4,050 m
Urdukas to Trango Base Camp
Trek to Trango Base Camp under the granite spires of Trango Tower and Nameless Tower.
4,000-4,200 m
Acclimatization
Setup fixed lines and gear at lower sections. Carry to Advanced Base Camp (4,800 m).
4,800 m
Acclimatization
Sleep at altitude and descend for recovery.
4,800 m
Acclimatization
Continue acclimatization with carries to Advanced Base Camp.
4,800 m
Summit Push: Base Camp to ABC
Move to Advanced Base Camp.
4,800 m
Summit Push: Technical Climbing
Start technical rock/aid climbing, haul gear.
4,800 m
Summit Push: Camp I
Establish Camp I on the wall.
5,300 m
Summit Push: Camp II
Climb difficult pitches and set Camp II.
5,800 m
Summit Push: Summit
Reach Summit Ridge and summit Trango Tower (6,286 m). Descend with rappels over 2 days. Summit day lasts 12-16 hrs.
6,286 m
Descent to Base Camp
Rappel descent to Base Camp.
4,000-4,200 m
Base Camp to Urdukas
Trek back to Urdukas.
4,050 m
Urdukas to Paiju
Trek back to Paiju.
3,400 m
Paiju to Jhola
Trek back to Jhola.
3,150 m
Jhola to Askole
Trek back to Askole.
3,050 m
Askole to Skardu
Jeep drive from Askole to Skardu.
2,228 m
Skardu to Islamabad
Flight (1 hr) or drive (2 days) from Skardu to Islamabad.
540 m

Photo Gallery

Trip Highlights

Summit Process

Three to four acclimatization rotations and a 4-5 stage big wall summit push.

Beautiful Destinations

Skardu Valley, Shigar Valley, Baltoro Glacier, and Trango Base Camp.

Famous Mountains

Views of Great Trango Tower (6,286 m), Nameless Tower (6,239 m), Trango Monk (6,000 m+), Trango II (6,327 m), K2 (8,611 m), Broad Peak (8,051 m), Gasherbrum I (8,080 m), Gasherbrum II (8,035 m), Masherbrum (7,821 m).

Iconic Climbing Routes

Famous routes including Eternal Flame, Slovenian Route, and British Route.

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